Waking up by the River in the Valley
Waking up next to the river, surrounded by the beautiful valley, was incredibly peaceful. The fresh morning air and the gentle sound of the river set the perfect tone for the day. We packed up our camp and prepared for our journey to Zavkhan province. There was excitement in the air as we anticipated reaching the Black Lake (Ulaagchiin Khar Nuur) later in the day.
Offroad Driving and Pavement Relief
We started our day with more offroad driving, navigating the rugged terrain that we had come to expect. After what felt like endless hours of bumps and rocky paths, we finally reached the paved road. The feeling of smooth pavement under our tires was an absolute relief after the long offroad sessions. It was almost like gliding on air compared to the offroad driving we had been doing.
Scenic Drive Between the Mountains
The drive soon turned into something truly spectacular—a scenic road that cut right between two mountain ranges. The towering mountains on either side made the drive unforgettable, with the narrow road winding its way through the landscape. The scenery was absolutely breathtaking, and the road seemed to go on like this for quite some time, allowing us to take in the full beauty of the Mongolian countryside.
Lunch Stop in Uliastai
We reached Uliastai, the provincial capital of Zavkhan province, just in time for lunch. The town was nestled in a stunning location, surrounded by mountains on all sides, sitting at the point where two rivers meet. We learned that Uliastai is one of the oldest sedentary settlements in Mongolia, originally established by the Manchurians as a military base to maintain control over the northern parts of Mongolia. It was even considered as the capital of Mongolia until Ulaanbaatar was officially declared the new capital in 1924.
After a nice lunch at a restaurant underneath a hotel, we took some time to relax and explore Uliastai—even the smallest semblance of urban life felt refreshing after spending so many days in the wilderness. We visited a quaint coffee shop, enjoyed a warm drink, and stocked up on supplies for the rest of our journey. The brief taste of city life felt like a well-deserved break.
Leaving Uliastai for the Black Lake
We departed Uliastai in the mid-afternoon, continuing on the paved road for a while before eventually transitioning back to a dirt road. Thankfully, this dirt road was much easier to traverse compared to the ones we had encountered in previous days. It was flatter, dryer, and more manageable—a testament to the fact that we were venturing farther south, nearing the Gobi desert. The changing landscape was noticeable as we moved towards drier, more open terrain.
Entering the Valley and Climbing the Mountain Pass
As we entered a valley, the road conditions became more challenging again, with large rocks scattered across our path. We took it slow, carefully navigating the rocky terrain as we climbed over a mountain pass. The sense of adventure was palpable as we made our way through this rugged landscape.
Arrival at Ulaagchiin Khar Nuur (Black Lake)
We finally arrived at Ulaagchiin Khar Nuur, or the Black Lake, just before sunset. The scenery that greeted us was nothing short of spectacular. The lake’s waters were crystal clear, with a beautiful hint of turquoise that shimmered in the fading light. What made it even more remarkable were the sand dunes that surrounded the lake on nearly all sides—something I had never seen before. We rode along the banks of the lake, eventually finding a perfect camping spot where a sand dune extended right into the lake.
Swimming and Setting Up Camp
Without wasting any time, everyone rushed towards the lake for a quick swim. The crystal-clear water was refreshing, and it was exactly what we needed after a long day of driving. Laughter and splashes filled the air as we all enjoyed the cool water. Once we were done, we set up camp as the sun began to set. The sunset was truly magnificent, painting the sky in multiple shades of red, orange, and pink. It was one of those moments that made me feel deeply connected to the world around me.
Fishing and Evening Stroll on the Sand Dunes
After setting up camp, I decided to try my luck with fishing in the lake, knowing that it had fish. Unfortunately, I didn’t catch anything this time, but it was still enjoyable to cast a line and watch the ripples on the water. We had dinner together, appreciating the peacefulness of the surroundings. As night began to fall, we went for a brief stroll across the sand dunes, taking in the unique landscape. I decided to go to bed early, excited about my plan to wake up and watch the sunrise from atop the dunes.
Anticipating the Sunrise
As I lay in my tent, I felt a sense of excitement. Tomorrow, I would watch the sunrise from the top of the dunes—a perfect way to start another day in this incredible landscape. Reflecting on the day’s journey, I felt grateful for the experiences we’d had and the beauty of the vast Mongolian landscape. It had been a day full of adventure, beautiful sights, and moments that I would remember for years to come.