Leaving the Darkhad Valley
Waking up in the Darkhad Valley after a peaceful night of camping was an experience of tranquility. We packed up our camp, preparing for the drive north towards the Taiga forest. The excitement of meeting the Tsaatan people and experiencing their unique way of life filled the air, and I could sense both anticipation and curiosity among us.
Driving to Tsagaan Nuur
We started our journey towards the town of Tsagaan Nuur. The drive was scenic, and soon we passed by Tsagaan Nuur lake—meaning “White Lake”. It was breathtakingly beautiful, with clear, reflective waters, but we had been warned not to go into the lake. Its muddy banks can be treacherous and dangerous, and we decided it was best to simply admire it from a distance.
Arrival at the Taiga Forest Entrance
After driving a bit further, we reached the entrance to the Taiga forest. We could see other tourists already there, waiting to be picked up by the Tsaatan reindeer tribe. Before long, a group of nomads arrived, accompanied by reindeer and horses. It was time for us to leave the cars behind and continue our journey deeper into the forest.
Choosing Between Reindeer or Horses
The nomads informed us that we could continue the journey on either reindeer or horseback. As much as we wanted to ride reindeer, they explained that riding reindeer can be tricky. It is common for people to fall, especially on this rough terrain, and the nomads suggested horses for the children, as they would guide the horses themselves. The adults could ride alone, and we felt confident about it, thanks to our previous experience of seeing the kids ride horses with the nomadic family. We decided to go with the horses and began preparing for the ride.
Entering the Taiga Forest
We set off into the Taiga forest on horseback, with our essentials strapped onto the pack horses. It was incredible to be riding through the Taiga, the world’s largest forest, often called the lungs of the world. This forest absorbs immense amounts of CO2 from the atmosphere, but also releases a significant amount during winter—almost like taking a breath. The scenery was absolutely stunning, but the terrain was very muddy and challenging. The horses struggled at times, losing their footing, and I admit I felt worried about the children. I was having trouble staying atop my horse, and I could see a similar concern on the kids’ faces. The nomads told us that reindeer traverse this kind of terrain more smoothly due to their wider hooves. Eventually, the kids and I found our rhythm, and the nomads expertly guided the horses, helping us relax and enjoy the ride.
Crossing Mountains and Forests
Our ride took us over two mountains and through thick forests, the terrain ever-changing. When we finally exited into an open valley, it was a relief—the ground was flat again. After hours on horseback, the strain was starting to show; my legs ached, and the cramping was relentless. But just as I was about to give in to fatigue, we turned a corner, and there it was—a breathtaking sight. In the distance, we saw a large herd of reindeer grazing freely, much like the herds of cows and horses we had encountered earlier on our journey. It felt like we had stepped into another world, and I almost imagined myself as a character in a western movie. Farther off, near the edge of the forest, we could see the Tsaatan teepees—a sight that filled us with awe.
Arrival at the Tsaatan Camp
We finally reached the Tsaatan camp and disembarked from our horses, letting out a collective sigh of relief. The landscape around us was surreal—the grazing reindeer, the teepees, and the distinct atmosphere made it feel as if we had traveled back in time. Other groups of tourists were also present, which provided a sense of comfort. The children wasted no time—they were already playing with a baby reindeer, their laughter echoing through the camp. The reindeer were incredibly docile, some approaching us curiously, hoping for treats.
Settling into the Teepees
Our hosts guided us to the teepee that would be our accommodation for the night. It was a simple structure—wooden poles covered by deer skin pelts, with makeshift beds inside, arranged much like inside a Mongolian yurt. We sat down to enjoy a simple Mongolian soup for lunch, made with deer meat. Despite its simplicity, it was surprisingly delicious, and we all enjoyed the warm meal after the long ride.
Learning About the Darkhad People
After lunch, our host began to tell us about the history and culture of the Darkhad people. Though they are a Mongolian tribe, their way of life is unique due to their relationship with the reindeer. They live in this harsh and remote environment because reindeer cannot tolerate heat; they need the cold climate of the Taiga. Unlike most Mongolian nomadic tribes that move their yurts four times a year, the Darkhad people move their teepees up to eight times a year, following the grazing needs of their reindeer. Their lifestyle is minimalistic—reindeer can’t carry heavy loads, which means the Darkhad use teepees instead of the more robust Mongolian yurts. We also learned about the mystical status of Darkhad shamans in Mongolian culture, and how they are believed to have supernatural powers.
Evening Activities at the Camp
As the evening descended, we were treated to a special experience—a Darkhad shaman performing a trance ritual. Though it was done more for show than a serious spiritual ceremony, it was still mesmerizing to watch. Later, we gathered around a large bonfire with the other tourists, as the local Darkhad children performed dances, sang songs, and even read poems. The warmth of the fire, the children’s performances, and the sense of community brought a feeling of joy and fulfillment to the evening.
Sleeping in the Teepee
When it was finally time to rest, we returned to our teepee for the night. It was basic, offering no insulation from the wind and only minimal cover from the elements—it was almost like sleeping outside. But despite the simplicity, it was one of the best nights of sleep I’ve had in a long time. I felt completely at peace, in tune with nature, and grateful for the experiences we had shared on this journey.