My Mongolia Self Drive Report: 16 days, 2,600 km across the North Mongolia

10 hours by plane, 2 hours by car, and there it was, the vast and untouched Mongolian wilderness. My wife, our 2 daughters, our son, and I packed our bags in Germany and set off on this adventure, a journey that once belonged only to my memories of Mongolia. Driving with the wind, crossing lakes, and following the rising sun, I share with you this travel journal of an unforgettable 2,600 km expedition.

My Mongolia Self Drive Travel Tips & Experiences

If you’re a seasoned traveler, you know how every place can transport you into a different world. That’s what makes every journey special. Among them, Mongolia stood out. Beyond its stunning landscapes, it offered an escape from daily life’s fast-paced, high-focused, Formula-1 like rush. The infinite horizon of the steppe invited my thoughts to wander, bringing a rare kind of tranquility. This journey wasn’t just a trip, it was a spiritual retreat for our family. Once in a lifetime, in the name of true adventure, there’s no better place than Mongolia to set up a tent in the wild and let your mind roam freely over the vast steppe.

During the trip, I found myself stopping the car countless times just to take in the breathtaking scenery. About 280 km from Ulaanbaatar, we reached Elsen Tasarkhai, a stretch of golden dunes that seemed to appear out of nowhere. Here, my daughters, 14 and 10, had their first camel ride, an experience they will never forget. As for my son? Just seeing a camel up close was adventure enough for him!

Why You Should Try Self Drive Travel in Northern Mongolia?

Our next stop was the Ancient Capital of Khubilai Khaan, one of Chinggis Khaan’s sons. This place, Kharkhorum, perfectly illustrates the political and religious traditions of the Mongols. The 108 stupas surrounding the monastery were stunning to look at.

Places to visit in Kharkhorin include the Kings’ Monument, Tolgoi Bolt, Beleg Rock, and Erdene Zuu Monastery. When I visited Erdene Zuu 10 years ago, it was still a very deserted place, even though it was spring. But this time, it was beautifully green. We visited the monastery, wore national clothes at the entrance, and took pictures with an eagle while browsing local stalls filled with colorful stones and handcrafted goods.

I had imagined the highlight of our northern Mongolia trip would be Khuvsgul Lake, but in between, I discovered another hidden gem. Terkhiin Tsagaan Lake, also known as the White Lake, is located near Khorgo Volcano. As you drive toward the lake, you’ll pass several must-see spots along the way. 

Taikhar Rock stood tall before me, its carvings telling silent stories. Locals took turns trying to toss stones over its 18-meter height some made it, others didn’t. I watched, amused but cautious, as a few stones landed dangerously close. A yak ride around the area added to the adventure, making the visit feel like a step back in time.

One of the first highlights of my trip to Northern Mongolia

I was particularly excited to see Khorgo Mountain, which looks like a bowl on a hill. It must have been formed by lava flow from a volcano that erupted more than 7,000 to 8,000 years ago. The brown, curly rock is incredibly light, hence the name “burnt stone.” Knowing we had arrived near Khorgo Mountain, we rested, believing that an interesting journey awaited us the next day.

As we left the mountain, kids shouted, ‘That big lake!’ It was the first lake of our trip, though. Legend has it that an old couple forgot to cover their well, nearly drowning the world, until a Mongolian hero casually plugged it with a mountain peak, leaving behind Terkhiin Tsagaan Lake. Sharing the one local story I knew with my family made me feel truly connected to the place. 

The highlight of my self-drive experience across Northern Mongolia: Khuvsgul Lake, the Blue Pearl of Mongolia.

A scenic view of Khuvsgul Lake in Northern Mongolia

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After driving over 800 km to Northern Mongolia, we finally made it to Khuvsgul Lake. There, I understood why Khuvsgul Lake was called the Blue Pearl. The deep blue lake, and the warm yet crisp wind, it was mesmerizing. Waking up to the sun rising over the Khuvsgul lake made for a perfect morning view. Riding with my son in front of me on a horse became a core memory I will cherish forever.

At Khuvsgul Lake, you can see Mongolia’s only ship, the Sukhbaatar, or rent a motorboat. After some debate, we opted for the boat, and it turned out to be the right choice. Traveling by boat was a far better experience. What could be better than dipping your hands in the water and feeling the cool droplets on your face? We also explored the opposite shore, where we saw reindeer and moose. Moose, specially bred within fences, are known to be arrogant creatures. Locals say they have a terrible temper and will bite if people get too close. 

During our days at Khuvsgul Lake, one of the highlights was getting the chance to surf. Some camps provide surfboards and even clothes, making it super easy to dive right in. The next day, we hiked up a nearby mountain and discovered we could pick wild berries along the way. However, the fruits aren’t that common, and only locals know where the wild berries grow. About us? We were just lucky. 

The Rock of Desire – a Beautiful Island on Khuvsgul Lake

Continuing further, we arrived at an island called the Rock of Desire. I have no idea why it’s named that way, but perhaps it’s because people whisper their wishes there, believing they will come true. Personally, I don’t think merely whispering at a rock makes wishes come true. But because so many people have done so before me, who knows? Maybe it does work.

From the Rock of Desire, the combination of Khuvsgul Lake, the land, and the sky created a breathtakingly blue panorama. I’ve seen many oceans and lakes before, but I had never encountered anything as crystal clear as Khuvsgul Lake. The shallows shimmered in shades of light blue and green, while further out, the water deepened into a mesmerizing dark blue.

The lake’s deepest point is about 260 meters, though the deepest section we traveled over was around 30 to 40 meters. Our boat’s owner, a friendly local, shared fascinating stories about the region.

If you’re looking for a peaceful, quiet trip, though, I’d recommend avoiding the Naadam festival period (July 10-15). During this time, the area gets packed with both locals and tourists. 

Chasing Blue: A Hidden Gem Beyond Khuvsgul in Northern Mongolia

Black Lake- Zavkhan, Northern Mongolia

Driving west along the Northern Mongolian Highway, some 442 kilometers past the famed Khuvsgul Lake, we stumbled upon a hidden treasure that felt like it had been waiting just for us. The Black Lake.

Unlike the vast expanse of Khuvsgul, Black Lake is smaller, quieter, and almost secretive. But what it lacks in size, it more than makes up for in charm. The water is a striking deep blue, framed by an unexpected palette of azure green shores and soft, golden sand dunes. It felt like we’d discovered a dream tucked between the hills and the sky.

Our time there was blissfully uneventful in the best possible way. The kids were busy gathering tiny shells and building sandcastles, their laughter carried by the gentle breeze. We lay on the velvety sand, letting the warmth of the sun and the hush of the waves wrap around us like a lullaby. Even stepping into the lake felt different the sand underfoot was so fine and soft it felt like walking into silk.

As dusk settled, we lit a fire and watched the sky turn into a theater of stars. That evening by the fire simple, quiet, and full of stories became one of those rare, cozy moments I know I’ll carry with me forever.

• A quick tip: don’t forget to pack mosquito repellent. The lakeshore has its fair share of persistent little visitors.

Wandering into the Past: Buutsagaan

Leaving Black Lake behind, we made our way toward Buutsagaan, an area embraced by ancient rocks and rugged silence. There, something magical happened we came across petroglyphs carved into the stones by people who lived thousands of years ago.

Something was humbling about standing in the same place where ancient hands once etched their stories into stone. It made me realize how rich and mysterious Mongolia’s countryside really is. Out here, history isn’t locked in a museum. It’s sprawled across the land, waiting to be discovered by those who take the time to wander.

The Way Back

On our return journey from Khuvsgul Lake, we passed through sand dunes and rocky mountains. Perhaps this is what makes traveling in Mongolia so special. Beyond a planned itinerary, you experience nature’s unique transformations, how the landscape shifts from vast, empty steppe to dense mountain forests, from lakes to sand dunes.

If someone asks me, “How was your Mongolian trip?” I would say, it was without luxuries, but every encounter filled the journey with warmth and grand hospitality. And experiencing it with my family? That was the true highlight of this entire adventure.

Écrit par : Khulan Mendsaikhan

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